The first inhale in Lamu is a salty kiss carried by the Indian Ocean breeze. It mingles with the earthy musky aroma of donkeys laden with goods, their braying a rhythmic soundtrack to the narrow, cobbled streets. The air whispers of freshly caught fish, its scent a testament to the town’s vibrant fishing heritage. Within the UNESCO-listed walls, a kaleidoscope of colour explodes. Amidst the vibrancy, there’s a calming peace. Locals walk around with their donkeys since no cars are on the island. Lamu isn’t just a feast for the eyes; it’s an immersion into the essence of the Swahili coast, a symphony of sights, sounds, and smells that linger long after your visit. Here are five ways to make the most of Lamu.
- Admire the architecture.
The Lamu sun casts long shadows down narrow alleys. You follow your guide, who tells tales of generations past as you approach an unassuming wooden door. This, they explain, is your portal into the hidden heartbeat of Lamu – a traditional Swahili house.
Step inside, and the cool embrace of thick walls and high ceilings instantly soothes the midday heat. Your guide gestures towards the grand central room, the “baraza.” Here, life unfolds in its fullest expression. You get to see the courtyard. Carved wooden chests, heavy with history, serve as seats, their worn surfaces whispering stories of long-held secrets. Walls adorned with vibrant kikois, hand-woven fabrics imbued with local stories, tell tales of generations past.
Family heirlooms adorn the space, each object a tangible thread connecting the present to the past. Gleaming brass trays catch the light, reflecting the vibrant hues of hand-painted ceramics. Once crafted by skilled local artisans, carved wooden ornaments whisper tales of forgotten skills. And then, there are the sculptures – not of marble or bronze, but of humble fish bones, painstakingly transformed into delicate works of art, a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of these seafaring people.
This is no museum exhibit, but a living, breathing space. The faint clink of teacups drifts from within, promising stories over steaming mugs. The scent of spices hangs in the air, mingling with the comforting aroma of freshly baked bread, a hint of the culinary delights hidden within.
Stepping outside, you leave with a sense of Lamu etched in your memory – not just a picture postcard vista, but a glimpse into the very soul of this ancient town. Its warmth, history, and stories are all woven into the fabric of a simple, traditional house.
2. Visit the old town
Lamu Old Town is a sensory journey back in time. Enclosed within 18th-century walls, taller than five meters, its heart beats with the rhythm of centuries. Access comes through arched doorways etched with stories, each step inviting you further into the labyrinthine embrace of its past. Here, winding streets are living narratives, each twist revealing treasures both ancient and vibrant. Legend mingles with history on sun-drenched walls, whispering tales of Swahili sultans, intrepid explorers, and bustling trade routes. Look beyond the “rickety buildings” and see their soul – intricately carved wooden doors, ornate balconies catching the sea breeze, and vibrant facades painted in turquoise, ochre, and coral, reflecting the town’s multicultural heritage.
3. Learn about Sayyid Said bin Sultan
This visionary Omani Sultan transformed Lamu, making it the capital of his East African dominions. His legacy lives on in the town’s prosperity and cultural exchange, evident in the architectural blend and diverse communities.
4. Experience Swahili dining In Lamu.
Lamu’s culinary scene is an adventure for your taste buds. Forget fancy restaurants; here, flavour unfolds on bustling street corners and hidden courtyards. Savour tamu tamu, sweet Swahili doughnuts dipped in coconut milk, as you watch dhows bob in the harbour. Indulge in samaki wa nazi, a fragrant fish curry simmered in coconut milk. Try mshikaki, skewered and grilled meats seasoned with cumin, turmeric, and paprika, along the narrow streets—sample chapati, perfect for scooping up stews. End your day with chai – spiced tea simmered with ginger and cardamom.
In Lamu, the feast extends beyond your plate. Witness the rhythmic pounding of dhow builders crafting traditional boats, a captivating performance in itself. Immerse yourself in the vibrant rhythms of taarab music, swaying alongside locals under the moonlight. Let the call to prayer echo through the ancient streets, a poignant reminder of Lamu’s rich cultural tapestry.
Come to Lamu not just for food, but for an experience. Let your senses guide you, savour the flavours, and connect with the warmth of the people. Here, every bite is a story, every encounter a memory, and every moment a testament to Lamu’s unique charm.